Grow Your Own

Beanpoles and peasticks

2

WHERE TO PLANT

Existing publications deal with all aspects of planting large areas of new woodland, see end for details. We are dealing with smaller areas of land such as allotments and gardens. The small stature of hazel, especially when coppiced, means that, with just two, even the smallest of gardens can have a bluebell wood!

Hazel tolerates frost, shade, and exposure and thrives on n wide range of soils. It is therefore well suited to grow in parts of the garden where it is difficult to grow much else or where you want n low maintenance gardening solution. As well as beanpoles any copse can provide additional benefits such as screening, shelter or shade which will effect location.

Redundant allotments are ideal sites, utilising unused and in a positive way to improve the environment, creating habitat for wildlife whilst providing nearby gardeners and allotment holders with useful twigs and poles.

There are places where it is best not to plant, for example:

Where the trees may shade your neighbour's garden. In the interests of having someone to feed the cat when you are on holiday con suit your neighbours before planting!

Derelict areas on allotments or similarly 'naturalised' areas may have reverted to a habitat more important for conservation than new woodland

BUYING YOUR TREES

What to buy
A 2 year old, 35-50cm sturdy, bare- rooted plant with a balanced fibrous root system is best and cheapest. One year containerised stock are increasingly popular. Although more expensive, they are less prone to handling damage and are suitable for planting all year round.

Where to buy
Buy from commercial Forestry suppliers, as their prices are a fraction of the cost at the Garden Centre. Your local Council's Tree Officer or Countryside Management Project should have details on local suppliers. National suppliers of containerised stock are given at the end of the booklet.

How to look after it once you have bought it!
Always cover plants when transporting and keep the roots moist and the plants in the shade. Trees in plastic 'forest tree' bags can be kept sealed upright in these for up to seven days when shaded. For longer periods plants can be 'heeled in' in bundles. Trees in bundles should never be thrown or dropped as this may kill a large proportion of them.

WHEN AND HOW TO PLANT

Plant when the trees are dormant, from the beginning of NOVEMBER to the end of MARCH. Containerised stock can be planted outside these dates. In dry areas plant before Christmas as this helps trees to establish better. Never plant in frosty or waterlogged conditions and keep the tree roots covered during planting. While good quality plants should not need compost, in dry conditions a handful or two at the base of the planting hole will be appreciated.

Notch Planting
This is the most common method with bare rooted trees especially when there are large numbers. Cut an L or T shaped notch with at least one vertical face. Lever open the soil, insert the tree using a wiping motion to get the roots well in, then pull gently upwards to ensure the tree is vertical and at the depth it grew in the nursery. Remove spade and firm tree, check firmness at least once in following weeks.

Pit- planting
Container grown stock, or larger bare rooted trees are pit planted. Also best method to use with inexperienced planters and where compost is to be added. The basic procedure is to dig a hole to fit roots without cramming; hold tree in the pit at the same depth it grew in the discarded container or nursery; push soil into the pit and firm gently as you work.

PEST AND PROTECTION

The worst pests for trees are Rabbits and Deer which eat the young shoots. A 60-75 cm plastic tree-shelter is the usual means of protection. Combined with good weed control, tree-shelters can improve survival and growth rates. They also help to show where the trees are growing. This is important as in the early years it is easy to Cut down trees by mistake if weeds hide them, "Sheffield Blight" or "Strimmer Scourge". A wooden stake, erected first, will support the shelter. The tree is slanted 4-5cm from the stake with the shelter put over the tree and attached to the stake with special ties or garden wire.

WEED CONTROL AND WATERING

Keeping weeds away from the base of trees for the first three years is crucial for successful establishment. Hand weeding or hoeing a 1m diameter strip is possible on small areas. Porous mulch, such as old woven packed carpet with a hole to fit over the tree, is best. Keep any organic Mulch away from the stem to prevent rotting. If herbicide is to be used, round-up (Glyphosate) applied first in late April and then in June/July should be appropriate for most situations (always refer to the manufacturers instructions on Health and Safety and dosage). Prevent spray drift coming in contact with the trees or they will be killed!

During the first few years of any coppice before the trees close their canopy the relatively large area of 'open ground' between trees can be very weedy with nettles, thistles and ragwort. On small areas and adjacent to gardens/allotments the whole area needs to be cut with a Heavy-duty mower or brushcutter in May/June and July/Aug. On larger schemes not close to gardens or allotments a single late summer cut may be sufficient.

If the trees are well weeded they should not require water in normal years. When it is especially dry it is best to give one or two really good oaks rather than many light waterings which do little good.

PLANNING YOUR BEAN POLE COPPICE

How Much to Plant
Each Beanpole Species will produce at least 10 beanpoles at the second cut rising to 30 + in old 'stools' 4' (1.2m) across. How quickly they grow to harvestable size depends on the local growing conditions. (Table 2) Hazel on moist clay soils in Southern England can tench Beanpole size at 4 years once established. On light sandy soils it can take almost twice as long. Sweet chestnut, when established, will also take 4 years on southern sites where it is suited. Each Beanpole shoot harvested will yield at least one peastick. Where just peasticks are required they can be grown on a shorter rotation. It is possible to mix rotations on a site, see later

Table 2
Average rotation lengths (years) for growing Hazel beanpoles and
peasticks in different conditions in North and South of England

Hazel does not last as long as Bamboo so each year a number of beanpoles will need replacing, how many will depend on whether you keep them under cover in the winter. About a quarter to a third of the beanpoles are likely to need replacing each year, more if you use thin ones. Peasticks rarely last more than a season and so need annual replacement.

How much do you need to plant to be self-sufficient in bean poles?

A. Number of beanpoles used: 36
B. Annual replacement needs = 36 x 1/3= 12 beanpoles/year
C. Rotation length (from table 2) = 5
D. Number of beanpoles per plant = 10
Number of plants required = (BxC)/D = (12 x 5)/10 = 6
Where additional peasticks and companion plants such as dogwood or even a Christmas Tree or two are to be grown then these should be added to the above number.

HOW MUCH SPACES IS REQUIRED

Ideal spacing is 1 x lm between plants. This establishes the woodland 'feel' quicker and speeds up the time when garden and woodland flowers can be established. The maximum recommended spacing is 2 x 2m. However it will take longer to close canopy and the more open condition will favour the growth of weeds. Relatively little space is required for most individual growers to be self-sufficient in beanpoles. In the area of an 8' x 10' garden shed 11 plants can be grown, sufficient to produce at least 15 beanpoles each year on a 7 year cycle along with some Dogwood shoots for use in fine weaving work or extra peasticks. The first 3-4 years involves maintenance work to control weeds both around the base and between trees and a staggered approach to planting up larger areas will spread the work load.

Location
When planting trees in a confined area the impact on neighbours should always be considered. Try to locate any planting so the shade it casts is on areas where it is not a problem or where shade is desirable, e.g. a chicken coop. Make use of existing natural features. They add diversity, interest and will create a more established appearance. Plant low stature species such as Dogwood on the edges and where a reduction in the height of the copse and spread of roots is desirable.
The proximity of buildings, overhead and underground pipes and cables to any planting can be a problem. The responsibility for any damage caused by trees lies with the trees' owner in nearly all cases. As a general rule avoid species that grow to a large size and species whose roots produce suckers as they tend to spread below ground where you cannot see the damage they are doing!

Layout
On larger planting schemes it is generally best to plant in rows, straight or curved, This makes it much easier to look after the trees than randomly spaced plantings. The rows can be orientated so that they are less obvious from the main viewpoints. Trees can be staggered from one row to the next which helps reduce the regular appearance and makes better use of the light. Mown paths around and through the copse will help with maintenance and make for a pleasant walk. Plan open areas to make best use of the sun at the times you need it.

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