RUSTIC GARDEN BENCH

A classic rustic bench that is strong, long lasting and easy to build with simple tools and techniques. Any species of round timber can be used for the framework but Sweet Chestnut and Larch are best, being naturally resistant to decay. When fresh the bark can be removed and once the timber is dry coloured stains can be used. Local estate sawmills will be able to supply all the wood required. The design uses Drivescrew, which are chunky galvanised nails with a screw thread and are available from builder's merchants.

Materials

Sawn Timber

6 x 120cm (4') x 125mm(5") x 37mm (1 ¼") waney edged planks (i.e. with the bark or outside of the tree still showing) with one face planed for the seat
2 x 25½" x 1½" x 1½" square sawn timber for the seat rest
2 x 20" x 1½" x 1½" square sawn timber for the back rest

Round timber poles

In total approx 7m (24') of round rustic poles are required. This should be cut to the following sizes:

2 x Front legs 59cm (23") Thickest
2 x Back legs 59cm (23") Thinner
2 x Arms 59cm (23") thinner
2 x Frame Brace 59cm (23") thinner
2 x Spacers 41cm (16") thinner
2 x Leg Brace 28cm (11") Thinnest

Fixings8 x 16 gauge 6" (150mm) Drivescrews 6 x 14 gauge 4" (100mm) Drive screws6 x 14 gauge 3" (75mm) Drive screws24 x 14 gauge 2 ½ " (60-65mm) Drive screws2 x 14 gauge 2 " (50mm) Drive screws2 x 12 gauge wood screws Tools4mm drill bit6mm drill bit 8mm drill bit Electric drillHammerSawMedium to large screwdriver

Constructing the Chair Frame

Preparing the Side frame

Using the 8mm drill bit drill holes as shown in the front and back legs and the armrest. The holes at each end of the armrest should be approximately in line. Always hold pieces firmly when drilling or better still use a workmate bench to hold the wood firm.

Using the 6mm drill bit, drill 'pilot holes' as shown in the front and back legs and the two spacers. Before drilling line these up with matching drivescrew holes.

Assembling the side frames

Take hold of a Front Leg and hammer a 6" drivescrew into the predrilled hole until the point protrudes 1" out of the other side. Then pick up a spacer and align its Pilot hole with the protruding drivescrews and hammer it home very firmly.

Now do the same with the other front leg, and also fix the backlegs to the other end of the spacer. Continue the same principle with the two arms. Stand the frame on its feet to adjust its flatness and squareness.

Preparing Frame Braces

Place the frame braces as shown and mark the angle needed to be sawn. On each frame brace, drill a 6mm drivescrew hole into the middle of each angle starting from the uncut side as illustrated.

To fix the framebrace lay the frames onto the ground. Take up a framebrace and gently hammer a 3-inch drive screw into both pilot holes so that it does not protrude from the other side. Then position the brace inside the frame gently tapping the drivescrews so as to mark the place for 4mm pilot hole, then tap the drive screws home.

Backrest

Drill a 3" pilot hole using a 6mm drill bit into one end of each of the two 20" backrests. Drill a 3" pilot hole using a 6mm bit into one end of each of the brackets. Then transfer the angle illustrated onto the ends of the bracket with the pilot hole, and saw of the waste.

Seatrest

Drill two 6mm drivescrews holes into the 25½" seat rest: 1½" from one end and 6" from the other end. Drill another 8mm drivescrew hole 4½"from the end of the seatrest, as shown, so that it is at the same angle as the pilot hole in the end of the back rest.

Fix together the backrest and seat rest by placing a 4 " drivescrew into the hole on the underside of the seatrest Then the angled end with the pilot hole of the backrest can be brought together with the protruding point of the drivescrews and gently hammer home.

Fixing the back and seat rest to the side frames

Place the two side frames flat on the ground about 18" apart making sure to have the front legs one to the far right and one to the far left. Measure 12½" from the bottom of the backlegs and make a clear mark then measure 14 ½" on the front legs and make a clear mark.

Line up the top edge of the seatrest to the 14 ½" and 12 ½" marks, with the back end of the seatrest level with the back leg. Drill a 6mm drivescrew hole through the seat and backrest enough to mark the frames to give you the position for the 4mm pilot hole. Fix with a 3" drivescrews.

The Planks!

These are 120cm (4') x 125mm (5") x 37mm (1 ¼") Waney edged with one face planed ie smoothed to avoid splinters in the bum. At each end drill 2 drive screws holes 6mm (5/8") from both the end and the side

Tip: Select the plainest planks for the seat and the interesting planks for the back.

Seat planks

The seat planks are the first to be positioned. For this the side frames are placed 120cm (4') apart. At least one side should be supported:

· Either lean it against something;
· Hammer a 2' to 3' pole into the ground or
· Fix the pole diagonally from the arm to the ground.

Take up the first plain plank and place it between the side frames, with the waney edge to the front lining-up with the ends of the seat rests. Using the second drivescrew hole as a guide drill a pilot hole in both seatrests then hammer home a 2-½ " drivescrew. NB ONLY ONE IN EACH END FOR THE MOMENT.

Tip: Standing the legs on something solid will make it easier to hammer in you drivescrews.

Follow the same procedure for the second plain plank leaving the space equal to an index finger between each plank. The third plain plank is positioned with the waney edge towards the back.

Stand back and make sure the bench looks square as opposed to crooked. Adjust as required and then drill the rest of your pilot holes and hammer in your 2-½ " drivescrews.

Backrest Planks

Release any support and lean the bench backwards so that the backrests are on the ground. Now position all your planks in the most interesting combinations. It may be necessary to slightly reshape the ends of the back planks if the arms get in the way of lining them up with the backrest.

By now you are probably getting quite excited by how good your bench is beginning to look. However we must continue drilling the pilot holes for the back planks and hammer home you drivescrews.

Fitting the Leg Brace

Saw 45-degree angles on the ends of both braces so that the cuts face the same direction. Drill drivescrew holes through the middle of each diagonal cut, from the reverse side. You must hold the piece down firmly on a scrap of wood when drilling the holes.

Place one drivescrew (100mm or 75mm) in the diagonal as illustrated. Position the diagonal as illustrated against the front leg and first or second plank until a snug fit is achieved.Tap the drivescrew firmly enough to mark the leg for the pilot hole position. Drill the pilot hole and then hammer home the drivescrew.

Follow the same principle to locate the position of a 3mm pilot hole for th plank which should be just 1" deep. MAKE SURE YOU CALCULATE THE RIGHT LENGTH OF WOODSCREW TO ENSURE IT WILL NOT GO RIGHT THROUGH THE PLANK.

Return the bench to its upright position. Take a couple of steps back. Smile. Admire your bench. Sit down. Take it easy. You made it, in more ways than one!

You may need to saw a little off one of the back legs to make the bench level.

Books on Rustic Furniture making.
Gilborn, Craig (1987) Adirondack Furniture and the rustic tradition., Harry N Adams, ISBN 0-8109-1844-7
Mack, Daniel, (1992) Making Rustic Furniture, Sterling/Lark Book, ISBN 0-8069-8264-0
Mack, Daniel (1996) The Rustic Furniture Companion: traditions, techniques and inspirations, Lark Books, ISBN0-937274-97-6
Ruoff, Abby (1997) Making Twig Garden Furniture, Hartley & Marks, ISBN0-88179-144-X
Stephenson, Sue Honaker, (1979) Rustic Furniture, Van Nostrand Reinhold Company, ISBN0-442-27974-4